That's an awful Fat main jet 185, that could have stayed at 180

HD runs the main jets Fat so you don't burn up the motor @WFO..

You didn't mention the needle ?? That should be shimmed about
.030 to start with, or use the 89 XL needle

45 would have been fine as well..

Sometimes adding the K&N set-up w/backing plate will disturb the intake seals at the heads, & create a leak.. I'd check it for leaks, just to be sure ..

 

You didn't say if he changed the exhaust or not. Usually, just changing the needle (89 Sportster) and leaving the factory jets alone will work just fine. You'll also need to adjust the air mixture screw (2.5 turns out from bottom is usually good) which is located under a plug on the bottom of the carb.

 

I have a question? Do you have to rejet if you are only changeing the filter and nothing else?
Moe

 

The Dynojet kits clearly specify to only change the slow (idle) jet for air cleaner and/or pipe change. Sounds like he's running way too rich.

 

Chopperdude, I am having the same problem as cheezyriders friend. And I too have an 05 1200 Sportster. I changed out my ehaust to cycleshack slipons with the K&N flter. I rejetted the carb to a 45 slow, 180 main and I did nothing to the needle. I did all this about a year ago. And it ran like a raped ape. Well about a month ago, my aftermarket lean/rich adjuster screw fell out while I was on a ride. I replaced it with the original and now it runs like it has a constant sput in it. As soon as I throttle it up, it seems to sputs down the road. I have tried everything since. I am stumped?

 

smoke245-

Did you lose any of the parts beneath the mix screw ??

It needs to have a:
1) spring
2) flat washer
3) o-ring to seal the mix screw from air leaking


I like using the oem mix screws (for that reason) & after dailed in I add a rubber vacuum cap on the mix tower. If (big if) anything ever came loose (never has) it would be caught in the vac cap...

 

Buddy Seat, yes I did lose the spring and the flat washer and o ring. I did get the replacement parts, but now that you mention it, I am not sure if I put the flat washer and o-ring in the right order, I tried to follow the pic in the harley repair manual. Could that be my problem if I have those two little items in the wrong order? I think I will also look at my screen in my fuel petcock. Thanks for the heads up

 

smoke-

Idle mix controls carb from idle to 1/8 turn open of throttle..

Correct assembly of parts are as follows:

1st to go in carb) O-ring aka packing

2nd) flat washer (to protect O-ring from the spring gouging it..

3) spring

4) mix screw

If you had NO problems before the idle/mix screw & etc fell out, then yes, this could be Ur problem..

If not & U check & clean petcock, & fuel line looks good, but problem persists.

I would pull the carb cap off & check the rubber on the slide for a rupture..

 

Buddy Seat, thanks for the reply, I checked everything out and I finally changed out the needle jet with one that I could set the e-clip on and have it on the 4th adjustment, seems to be running fine now. But hard to tell it is winter here and cold starts every morning.

 

I also lost the washer and spring after the EZ just screw fell out but I found the screw on the engine case and was able to get another spring and washer from an indy. I was transporting the bike down to Florida for the winter and stopped to fuel the truck and just checking things when I saw the screw laying on the engine case.

 

No problem...

The E-Z screws seem to back out much more often. I use the OEM screws.

As far as losing the screw/washer & o-ring:

Using an OEM screw, I add a rubber vacuum cap on the mix tower. If (big if) anything ever came loose (never has) it would be caught in the vac cap...

Bike would run crappy, but you would still have all the parts..