Pushrods- Yes, adjustable
Tuner- TTS Mastertune
Cams- Your choice
Heads- Compression Releases (depending on your compression, of course).

Don't underestimate the cost of shipping......

 

get the realeases
cc the heads to match the cams for compression.
keep the stock push rods.
TTS
get the cam gaskets seperate and buy the torrington 168 bearings at a local bearing house. you dont want to use the ones in the cam chest kit anyway.
why dont you try the Leineweber RE T5 S Cams. with 85 cc heads and 30 ths. head gasket. ( 40 ths. comes in the s&s kit)
I really would like to try that cam in my 106.
so if you do it first then I could see the results before I buy!LOL
COME ON HELP A BROTHER OUT HERE.

 

Heads by Big Boyz = $ 299 (plus cc'ing and milling and shipping if required)
S&S 106 BB Kit = $695 Not a bad kit, but you can have 107ci for cheaper with gaskets or just a 103 cheaper still.
D&D 2-1 Exhaust = $ 568 good
SE Cam Install kit $100
SE Top End Gasket Set $85 get a cometic .030 or BB sells copper as well.

What else on the heads? possible compression releases if needed

What Cams? A tw6, andrews 54, andrews 37, depends on your wants....

Keep stock push rods or get new adjustables? Depends on head/gasket mods.

Tuner?tts and DYNO.

 

Cheap Build



I'm basically bits/piecing together a 103"/cam build when $$ allow. So far I've acquired:
SEST (new/sealed) $225
SE 103" flat top piston kit (new) $115
CVO 255 cams (fresh out of a 10 mile CVO RG) $125 I do have the option to swap for SE 204's locally if I decide later on.
Boring/honing stock cylinders (known cost) $140

I am looking around for gasket kits/lifters/bearings/hd clutch spring/CR's to complete but not doing the work until next winter. The frustrating thing is seeing good priced items and not having the $$ !!

 

Great information Dan.:woohoo:
Scott

 

100HP / 115 torque shouldn't be too hard to achieve even on a budget... A Dyna with a well tuned 103" motor will flat out fly. I am gonna repeat a little of what has been said earlier with my own spin...

The bike is a 09 Dyna.

Heads by Big Boyz = $ 299 + CC + Compression Releases
S&S 106 BB Kit = $695 Get 103" 10.5:1 forged pistons and have your juggs bored.. Less than $400..
D&D 2-1 Exhaust = $ 568
SE Cam Install kit $100
SE Top End Gasket Set $85

What else on the heads?

What Cams? Woods 6 or TW408-44, possibly Andrews 54.

Keep stock push rods or get new adjustables? Adjustables

Tuner? TTS and a proper Dyno Tune

 

Make sure you get with Bean on the head porting. These are nothing more than air pumps i do not think you will hit your mark with stock size valves. With a port street head and stock valves the 100 hp mark is like a wall, some will get right to it and stop just short. I see one or two that have broke the 100 mark , Just did a street port with a 103 kit it made 98 and 110. A 1.9 intake valve would have pushed the power up a few. You got the pipe to make the power add the andrews 54 cam and it will hit the mark. Set compression at 9.8-10.1 .

 

A 1.940" intake valve, would help dramatically.
But on another note, the S/E 1.725 rocker arm, on the OE cam, with headwork and bore to 103-107".
Something to think about, that's all.
Scott

 

I like your choice of parts.
I believe you can get the S&S kit for a bit less if you shop around. Wont save a whole lot by boring stock to 3.938 by the time you ship back and forth.
Can't beat the D&D for your goals, standard baffle if you like the noise.
I would keep the stock valve size, don't worry about HP, torque is where its at.
Cams? Andrews 54H with the heads set at 85 cc will always start easy and makes great power with the BigBoyz heads, never a bad idea to do comp releases for those really hot days. if you are lucky and have chambers on the smaller side, say for example, 87 cc to start with and you only mill around 15-20 thousands to set the proper cc's you can still get by with stock pushrods. Yes, even with a 30 thousands gasket. As for gaskets I would look into a complete cometic set.

 

Agreed on the hp number tq is where it is at. As for the bigger rockers not sold on them. Buy the cam you need I dont think adding that small amount of extra lift is going to help you at all. Have seen a few dyno sheets with them and they are not doing any more than what we have seen without them. Just extra money spent.

 

50mm throttle body to feed it enough juice

 

I did a fairly mild 103" build for a customer in Lauderdale......... 103 hp. 114.50 ft. lbs.
Eddie Trotta's personal bike..... 111 hp. 118 ft. lbs. It's an '09 103" police bike,highly customized.
Point is,many parts are readily available from many sources,including the MoCo.
John

 

Look at for sale on this forum 107" new for $595.00. if I remember .

 

A very conservative build I did, using the same basic ingredients that you are looking at.

I like the 54s, but want guys to try something different so I can see where that gets you.

I have stock size valves. I was told the stock valves would keep the torque to the left a bit.

I tend to agree. Look how Herko got the bike to tune out. Maybe a larger valve woulda helped the top a bit?

I am VERY VERY happy with this build. Dan is correct... the bore job is around $100 cheaper up front than the S&S. I wonder how that changes with shipping costs? I got my S&S kit for $650.

I used the S&S HG. My pistons came out to be .003 proud of the cylinder. The .040s made me have .037. Good enuff squish for me. I was afriad to run .027 on a bagger that surely will carbon up a bit. We set chamber CNC volume to 86. Bean is a great dude to work with.

I'm going to be the one to say it.... what are you thinking about the crank? Anything?

Have fun doing this build. It would have to $hit and get on a Dyna!!!!

 

100+ torque 2500-5500,that looks like fun.Truk,you could pull a camper with that scooter..lol

 

Heads by Big Boyz = $ 299 + 200 should cover the rest shipping and releases
S&S 106 BB Kit = $695 599 DEl ebay
D&D 2-1 Exhaust = $ 568 Used 300 can be found
SE Cam Install kit $100 not sure
SE Top End Gasket Set $85 better ones around
Cam Andrews 54 225.00 ebay
Pushrods Depends

 

Who is selling the Fatcat for 568? That's a great price!

 

Pipecity but there are better deals out there, remember this is for a dyna so a little cheaper than the bagger pipes

 

Okay gents talked to Bean yesterday no prob on the heads was asked him to do the bore and recommend a piston set and he advised just getting the S&S 106 BB kit as many people here have good results. Now a follow up.

Cams - I like early TQ that holds flat all the way across, I am not interested in peak or late HP just Early TQ and flat across so which cam?
Have had luck with teh HQ 500 and 575 on my baggers, has anyone tried these vs andrews?

Tuner - I am still up in the air, I have had TMAT before, SERT< SEST, Best results with local tuner has eben the SERT. TTS I am not that sure of the difference between the SERT and TTS.

 

The TTS is basically the SERT with a whole bunch of extra's, if you understand the SERT, you will understand the TTS. As for the camset I have installed a few sets of HQ cams(0034s and 575's) and was always satisfied but I would highly recommend an andrews 54H for your application, very quiet, much better low speed manners than the HQ series and more reasonably priced. Other cam choices would be a Wood 6 or 7 but once again quite a few dollars more. Your choice of pipe is going to greatly affect the torque curve and I would suggest a Fatcat standard baffle.

 

Bob, thanks for the I think I will go with the 54h, I am still not sure about the tuner yet, have ot had the greatest experience around here with tuners, the best is my local HD shop, pretty good but not perfect, tried thew TMAT on my 07 RKC build, great power but bad MPG, think it was adding too much fuel. I am planning to put the D&D with quiet baffel as this yeilds more performance than the standard or performance baffle (atleast in the touring models).

Wurk Truk I was not planning to do anything to the crank, I talked to my dealer service manager about doing the dark horse weld balance and asked him how many faikures he has seen, told me only 4 in the past 20 years he has been there, 3 stockers and 1 95 inch build, said dont worry about the crank, this is on tourers so if the crank is different or there is an issue please let me know.

Thanks for the input gents.

 

Bob, thanks for the I think I will go with the 54h

way to go Bob ya talked him right out of the Leineweber.:spank:
that's it I am reporting you to the MODS!
Or administrator or something or somebody!

 

Leineweber RE T5 S Cams, never even heard of these cams, if you pay half I am willing to try it hehe

 

Jim has been making H-D cams for over 50 years.
longer than anyone in the business.
the 5 looks real interesting in a 106 @ 10.44 static compression. 9.6:1 corrected
http://www.leinewebercams.com/twincamcatalogue.pdf

 

Are you doing this build yourself? You going to change cam bearings? If YES to both counts, then I would go ahead and buy the cam change tools from George's Garage.

You get DUAL uses from this particular set of tools.

THe flat plate used to install the bearings can also be used to hold a magnetic base for a dial indicator. You REALLY REALLY want to check run out on your crank while it is this far apart.

MINE was .0045 on the pinion side and .008 on the output side. I threw that POS crank away and installed a straightened one. WORLD of difference in the bike. No kidding!!!

I have an 09 SG and bent the crank within 2000 miles of owning the bike. I did the build that I did, because I was putting my hands numb, ass numb etc. .008 wasn't enuff for a warranty claim (need .012) and I did NOT wish another stock crank anyway. I did the 'build' because I was changing out the crank and would have it totally apart anyway, why waste that, I thought.

That being said, I WILL admit that I am now a bit paranoid for others on this issue. Darkhorse can be your friend and give GREAT peace of mind. I used R&R to rebuild (NOT the 5 piece) my own crank... same difference.... Down in FLA you could have Falicon weld and true your crank. Or, Randy from Hyperformance can weld and true a crank for like $200 or so...

http://www.faliconcranks.com/index.html

http://kingofcubes.com/

http://www.darkhorsecrankworks.com/

If you think about it... all the MOCO cranks are the same thing basically (A and B motors are slightly different) and the touring bikes weigh way so much more? What crank is under the most everyday stress?

I'm off of the soap box now:beer:

 

BVBOB what is this TTS tuner all about. Is this a good tuner for my 09 bike?? I am looking to upgrade my current stock engine. Looking at maybe a 103 kit but now I see that there are 106 and 107 kits. Which only confuses me more. I Want a good running kit that will produce good power. I am a big guy on a big bike so I am pushing the weight limit. All opinions welcome trying to wrap my mind around these engine sizes and kits.

 

TTS is the brand name of the tuning access key that allows you to reprogram your factory ecm by linking your bikes computer to a PC, It is manufactured by the same company that made the former Screamin eagle race tuner for the MoCo. Basically the same access "key" with many additional features in the software to tune your bike to perfection. The 103 is generally accepted as the traditional size overbore (stock cylinders) used by the moco and also many aftermarket companies manufacture 103 piston kits. Also, a few manufacturers produce piston kits that allow you to overbore your stock cylinders to achieve 107 cubic inches (3.938 bore) as a bolt on kit(meaning no case/bottom end work) The 106 kits that are generally spoke of here are the S&S bolt on kits that come complete with S&S cylinders which have a somewhat thicker liner(lower spigot diameter and thickness same as stock) and use a Wiseco piston desined for 3.927 bore of their cylinders.My suggestion would be to contact a site sponsor like Hyperformance GMR BigBoyz to name a few and ask them what think will work for you and your riding style, might also want to start a dedicated thread pertaining to what you are looking for in cost and performance.

 

Okay the BB kit showed up Friday evening. here is what I am set on doing. Thanks for all the input gents.
Bought a HF lift table $279 (should make things easier on back)
Got BB kit for $595 delivered Dennis Kirk, decided on the TMAT as tuner since I will do this build in stages.

Part 1

Install BB kit next weekend
Ordered TMAT for $785 (save on dyno time)
Ordered Zippers Maxflow A/C kit


Part 2 (when I get time, I travel alot for work)

Andrews 54H cams
D&D Fatcat ($589)
Heads (by bean at Bigboys)

Will be back as I start screwing up the BB installation for more wisdom for the brain trust here.

 

Keep in mind that those Wiesco flat tops, displace a minus 2, 2.3cc's.
Another thing to consider, may be the use of a 4* advance gear, in order to allow that 54 to strike harder.
Scott

 

Looks like my build, I finally decided on, but this is on a bagger:

Woods 408 cam (chain drive) $450

Hillside Stage 4 Heads with manual compression release: $1348

10.8:1 CR to be set

Jim's Roller Rockers JM1045RR 1.62 ratio _Bought EBay_$389

HPI TB 55mm $584 Zippers External vent backing plate $140

Injectors $120

106" S&s BB kit 434-386 $568 _bought J&p cycles

TTS with tune $625

D&D fatcats $637 Delivered AMS

SE compensator $240 _MOCO

Tak clutch pack $333

Hoban worked S&S 4-3/8" crank with H-style connecting rod $1425

Timken lefty upgrade $50 _Berry Bearings

Timken sleeve $100

Andrews Chromoly Adjustable pushrods $80 Swapmeet_ new in package

Oil pressure/temp gage kit $180 _MOCO

Gasket Kit $100

EVO industry 30T sprocket and chain $298

Cam plate Torrigton Bearing $30 _Berry Bearings

Price adds up quick. But I think I build it once and be done.

 

Shovel, that sounds like it's going to be a bad ass ride.

 

We can only hope. Got a lot of help and suggestions from this site, but you gotta ask and do your research. I think the proper mechanical build, squish and cylinder decking,plus the tune will be the thing that makes it worth it all.